Kleins in Italy

Monday, 4/4

“Watch out for the goats!” isn’t something I generally need to say as we’re driving around Newport Beach, but we’re not in California anymore. And we’re not in Bologna either. Monday, we made the drive south to Tuscany, (with only one minor navigational miscue) skirting around Florence and winding our way through the charming and picturesque villages of this idyllic area. As we came past one particular farm, goats were scampering all around, unfenced, right at the side of the road, prompting my unusual warning.

Instead of driving straight to the hotel, (and because our car gives us the freedom to go anywhere we want) we decided to visit the little town of San Giminagno along the way. It’s one of those places many people had recommended to us and I’m so glad we didn’t miss it. We had lunch at La Vecchio Mura, a restaurant hanging right on the wall of the village with an outdoor dining patio and stunning 180 degree views of the Tuscan hills. It was still pretty chilly, but the clouds were clearing and the emerging sunshine made outside dining a pleasure.  After a very satisfactory lunch and bottle of local Vernacchia wine, we got our exercise by climbing the Torre Grossa, the largest of the town’s remaining fourteen towers (there used to be 72.) At 200 feet tall, (or 218 stairs) the panoramic view from the top makes every step worthwhile. The puffy white clouds hanging all around made the vista look almost like a set piece. We treated ourselves to gelato after the big climb then slowly wound our way down and out of this charming and wondrously un-busy little town.

Fast forward 30 minutes and we reached our next destination: Castello del Nero, a magnificent 740-acre estate, complete with vineyard and a twelfth century castle. We have a beautiful private suite on the corner of the property with spectacular views. The hotel just opened for the season on April 1st and there aren’t many guests here, but the property, impeccable service, and peaceful surroundings are just what the doctor ordered.

Tuesday, 4/5

Breakfast was served in a “temporary” yet elegant structure called the Pavilion which has clear walls and stunning views of the rolling hills and countryside. There was an array of fresh fruit, pastries, eggs to order, and David’s breakfast of choice: fresh, warm bread smothered with ricotta and lox. With the sun shining clear and bright, it was the perfect place to start our day.

Around 11am, we rolled out for our daily dose of adventure, this time with Lucca in our sights. This is a fantastic old town, famous for their rampart walls which make a complete 2.5 mile loop around the town. For centuries, the walls were fortified to keep the city safe, but now they provide a wide, elevated thoroughfare for bikers and walkers to enjoy. We rented bikes and joined all the locals already making laps. It was easy pedaling and after the first lap we came down the ramp into town and rode until we found a sunny spot for lunch. Ciacco was a perfect place with amazing crostinis and an even better porchetta panini. We lingered in the sunshine over our vino bianchi and then finally motivated to take one more lap around the walls before turning the bikes in and driving home the scenic route. We’ve been sticking to the more direct toll roads, but this time we came winding home through towns and villages and along an amazing, high ridge road with sweeping view of wineries and olive groves on both sides. We had stunning scenery and crystal clear blue skies all day and although temps have remained cool, it’s wonderfully warm “Under The Tuscan Sun.”